It’s been awhile since Nicole and I visited a new
Colorado brewery and we’ve been playing catch-up. While our fair state continues to add more
and more places to grab house-made craft beer, we’ve been lagging, falling
behind. How can we ever expect to visit
every brewery in Colorado when we fail to keep up with all the new
openings? We needed to remedy the
situation and, on a recent trip to Boulder, remedy we did when we visited three
new breweries: FATE Brewing Company, BRU Handbuilt Ales, Wild Woods Brewery,
and, while technically not a new brewery by our standards (we only count
original locations), the new Upslope Brewing Company facility in Flatiron Park.
FATE was the first place on our list and, if you can
find the front door through the windy, labyrinthine business park roads and
parking lots, you’ll be greeted with a rustic façade complete with a wooden fence, a wagon wheel, and rusted metal paneling that’s quite the contrast
to the surrounding corporate offices, law firms, and other such blandness. FATE is a little bit of the rough-and-rugged
mountains set down amidst a sea of suit-and-tie city folk.
The interior of FATE has a less pastoral vibe but
leans more towards rural modernism: stark concrete, knotty, dark wood accent
pieces, and more oxidized metal paneling.
Our waitress seated us and, because Nicole is quite the fan of pumpkin
beers, we ordered Pumpkin Saison with Chai Spices, Smoked Imperial PumpkinAle, and Nitro Cascadian Dark Pumpkin. Pumpkin
Saison features a light, pumpkin pie spiced aroma but the Belgian yeast is more
noticeable. It is a pale, clear,
straw-yellow color and it tastes mostly of chai spices. Smoked Imperial Pumpkin is slightly opaque
and coppery orange. The aroma and flavor
are both lightly smoked and the pumpkin flavor is minimal. With a thick, tan head and a deep mahogany
body, Nitro Cascadian Dark Pumpkin smells and tastes chocolate-y and, true to
the nitro style, features a creamy mouthfeel.
Left to right: Smoked Imperial Pumpkin, Nitro Cascadian Dark Pumpkin, & Pumpkin Saison |
When you visit FATE, know that it’s quite the
gastropub, too; the menu is artisanal yet hearty and their breakfast grits are
the second best I’ve ever eaten (after the shrimp and grits plate at Jonesy’s EatBar, of course). Come to FATE both
thirsty and hungry and you won’t be disappointed.
Our next stop, BRU, was just about a mile away down
Arapahoe Ave. and, much like FATE, it’s a brewery stuck in the middle of an
inconspicuous business complex. Unlike
FATE’s countrified exterior, BRU’s outward
appearances do little to set itself apart from the rest of the units in
its building; to the nonchalant customer, BRU, at a glance, might as well be
just another jazzercise gym or dingy massage parlor of suspicious repute. Once you walk inside, though, it becomes
abundantly clear that the outside betrays the wonderland lying within. The best term I can think of to describe the
interior of BRU is “hipster’s antique shop.”
Look inside the tin-roofed brew room and see the walls lined with shiny
tin tiles usually seen on the ceilings of Old West saloons. Look behind the bar and see the tap handle
pulls made of garage sale items like old-timey whisks, potato mashers, waffle irons, and ice
cream scoopers. Look on the walls and
see weathered, metals letters spelling “BRU” and a funky little flip-book
thingy near the restrooms where, if you crank the handle, you’ll see a running
horse. The BRU taproom is eclectic,
artistic, and the polar opposite of its exterior.
The beer, likewise, is interesting and fun. We enjoyed a flight of Sour Mash Abbey Brown,
Osito Stout, Sasquash Pumpkin Porter, Loch Wee Heavy, and Roasted Apricot Trippel. Sour Mash reminded me of
cherries both in aroma and flavor. It
has a puckering finish and is the color of a shiny penny. Osito is a coffee stout and—no surprises here—drinking
Osito is akin to drinking coffee. It’s
black with a chocolate-brown froth and, while it looks like a straight, black
cup o’ Joe, there isn’t an intense roasted malt bitterness; there’s something
in it that cuts the bite. Sasquash is a
black beer with red highlights. It
tastes roasted but with traces of pumpkin flavor; it’s mostly porter with
pumpkin acting as back-up. Russet brown
with a caramel and toffee aroma, Loch Wee Heavy features a complex, earthy,
malt backbone. The Roasted Apricot is
goldenrod yellow and the eponymous fruit is obvious on both nose and
palate. It finishes with a Belgian spice
aftertaste.
Left to right: Sour Mash, Osito, Sasquash, Loch Wee Heavy, and Roasted Apricot |
After another short drive (less than half a mile; the
area around Arapahoe Ave. has become quite the Boulder brewery hotspot), we
arrived at Wild Woods which, keeping with the apparent theme of the
off-Arapahoe brewing scene, is located deep in the heart of an unremarkable-looking
industrial complex. Yet, like BRU, the
taproom décor does much to make patrons forget their physical location, putting
them in a wilderness frame of mind with green paint, landscape photos of
canyons and mountains, cabin-like wood walls, and an enormous, well-glossed, thinly-shaved section of
tree trunk serving as a communal table.
A little sprucing up (in the case of Wild Woods, literally the
coniferous tree) can do wonders for even the dullest of spaces.
While there, we sampled Campfire Red, Smores Stout, and Ponderosa Porter. Campfire Red
appears as a clear, red-copper liquid and wafts scents of toffee. It tastes mildly smoky and peaty. Smores Stout is dark as oil but with
exceptionally faint red highlights when viewed with a strong light source. In general, roasted flavors and aromas
dominate this beer. Ponderosa Porter was
your typical, everyday porter but with some wonderful vanilla flavors swirling
about.
Smores on left, Campfire on right |
To cap off our Boulder brewery tour, we headed a mile
or so north to attend Upslope’s 5th anniversary party in their
newest location in Flatiron Park.
Surprise! Upslope is also situated in an industrial
strip! Many of these breweries truly are
destinations. Yet, once again, the
taproom interior proved much more interesting than the outside appearances
suggested. Heck, the inside of Upslope
is downright chic! There’s a cool,
concrete bar top with taps suspended from the ceiling in silver tubes, there’s
a blown-up graphic organizer of beer styles adorning one wall, and the large
windows looking out on the brew floor gives customers a glimpse into the inner
workings of a brewery (of course, for the anniversary party, Upslope had the
brew floor open to the public so attendees could really get a feel for the equipment).
While there, Nicole and I enjoyed samples of many a
sundry beer including a session peach ale, a bourbon-barrel pumpkin ale, a
Thai-spiced IPA, and an IPA aged in a cabernet barrel. The show-stopper, however, was undoubtedly
their 5th Anniversary Ale—an imperial stout aged for three months in
Dancing Pines Distillery bourbon barrels.
It was, to say the least, a powerful beer and, since Upslope was the
last stop on our grand Boulder tour, I could only drink a little before pouring
the rest out; it’s a fantastic beer but, damn, all the beers from the previous
three breweries had been taking kidney shots on me all day and, thoroughly
weakened, 5th Anniversary was about to go for the knock-out blow. Passed out on the floor is no way to end a
lovely day of touring breweries so I was forced to leave 5th
Anniversary Ale largely un-drank.
5th Anniversary Ale |
Our trip to Boulder helped get us back on track but,
as each new day ticks by, more and more breweries open across the state. Even right in Boulder there are three Nicole and
I had neither time nor endurance to visit (Sanitas Brewing Co., The Kettle & Stone Brewing Co., and J Wells Brewery). It’s the nature of the beast—I
highly doubt we’ll ever be able to
visit all the breweries in this fine, suds-soaked state of ours but darn it if we’re
not going to have a lot of fun trying.
Prost!
Chris
Ha! |