Brewery oversaturation: a played-out idea. It’s not real (at least not for another few
decades). There are a thousand reasons
why the notion of brewery oversaturation is a crock but I’ll leave you to your
own devices on that one; search the internet and find the mythbusting facts for
yourself (you can start here).
Since that little alarmist’s cry has been stifled,
people have been conjuring up new ways to rain on craft beer’s parade. Now, it’s not about how many new breweries are opening, it’s about how many new breweries
are good. It’s become a quality issue and, if you talk
to Chicken Little, a few bad beers are poised to take down the entire industry. Again I say, get on Google and
search the topic yourself. There’s no
shortage of doomsayer articles.
I’m not writing a treatise on why the quality debate
should, like the oversaturation debate, be dropped but I can’t help but make a
few points. First, commercial Darwinism
is real. The strong breweries will
survive while the weak wither and die. I
hate to see any craft brewery close but that’s the cold, harsh reality of capitalism. Paying customers will weed
out subpar breweries before they do any real damage to craft beer’s overall
public image.
Whistle Stop Park |
Secondly, the definition of “bad beer” is very, very
subjective. Official BJCP style guidelines exist but, in the end, customers drink whatever they want to drink
regardless of whether or not it fits a certain parameter. In Denver, there are breweries most “experts”
deem as in need of improvement yet walk by any given weekend and the place is
crammed with thirsty patrons. You can rationalize
it, say those patrons are idiots for supporting such a lacking establishment, but
it doesn’t change the fact that the brewery is doing good business and people
are enjoying their experience. All due
respect to the late Paul Walker but, if it were in my hands, I’d scrub the
earth clean of every copy of every Fast and Furious movie because it’s an undeniably insipid film franchise. But, it’s also a successful franchise and
hasn’t done anything to diminish the erudite reputation of Cannes’ arthouse
films. This reality is paralleled in
craft beer.
Lastly, who’s to say good beer isn’t destroying the craft beer industry? Pliny the Younger and Heady Topper are the Citizen Kane of craft beers, widely considered
the top of the heap. However, would Fast and Furious fans accrue any
pleasure from viewing Orson Welles’ masterpiece? No.
They’ll say it’s boring and then bring up Netflix to order Transformers: Dark of the Moon. Why should anything different be expected when
the man who’s only drank Bud Light his entire life sips an imperial IPA? Undoubtedly, he’ll hate it and assume all
craft beer is as awful and bitter, henceforth eschewing independent breweries. As a matter of fact, this man should be given a terrible craft beer
because it’d be more in line with his usual fare. Once he’s introduced to the world of craft
beer, he can explore further and grow and develop into a more sophisticated
drinker. Bad craft beer is, in essence,
a gateway beer to bigger and better things.
I’m dubious as to how detrimental new brewery quality
really is to the industry as a whole. I’m
especially dubious after having attended the New Brew Fest in Niwot this past
weekend—a beer fest for breweries five years or younger—where almost everything
on tap tasted fabulous!
Sponsored by Colorado Beer Trail and Bootstrap Brewing, the inaugural New Brew Fest was held at Whistle Stop Park, a small, railroad-themed patch of grass on the edge of Niwot parallel to Diagonal Highway and the same freight train tracks running by Sanitas Brewing Co. Having a locomotive roar past, ten feet from the beer tents, added an extra element of excitement to New Brew Fest; it mixed in a sense of danger and connected back to Colorado’s industrious past. It’s such a simple thing, a careening train, but it added much to the event’s ambiance. Click here to see just how close the train got to the festival.
Some stand-out moments from New Brew Fest:
·
Every first-time event has a few hiccups. At New Brew Fest, the most obvious concern
was the insufficient number of port-o-potties. Indeed, a beer fest could rent every port-o-potty
in the world and it’d still be insufficient because every beer festival attendant
is a potential Niagara Falls.
Nonetheless, there was certainly room for more stalls and they could
have cut the wait time by at least a few minutes.
Okay, there was one other hiccup. This seems legit enough until... |
...I think there's something missing here |
·
When a beer fest features live music, to me it’s
either white noise or intrusively loud.
However, I have to give it up to the first band at New Brew Fest who performed a bluegrass-yet-rock-n-roll rendition of Lady Gaga’s “Bad Romance.” My inner “Weird Al” Yankovic fan appreciated
the humor of it all. That wasn't their only great cover, either; Nicole couldn't help but find herself singing along with and swaying to their music.
·
Nicole and I made a concerted effort to visit
the breweries we’ve yet to see in person and, because the breweries at New Brew
Fest are so new (or because Nicole
and I just haven’t gotten around to them), we had a lot to visit. They included 300 Suns Brewing, 4 Noses Brewing Co., Powder Keg Brewing Co., 12 Degree Brewing Co., Very Nice Brewing Co., and Wonderland Brewing Co.
·
Some memorable beers from New Brew Fest: the
sour and spritz-y Mimosa, a sour ale aged in Champagne barrels with Satsuma oranges,
from Powder Keg (their hibiscus saison was also stellar), the fruit-tastic and
summery Passion Fruit Wheat from Industrial Revolution Brewing Co., the
green-tea infused Lu Yu Golden Ale from The Post Brewing Co., and the New
Zealand-hopped Legal Nelson from 12 Degree Brewing Co.
New Brew Fest wants you to play it safe and ride your bike. |
Hold your head high, new breweries; although the
current trend is to drag your good name through the dirt, insinuate your
poor-quality beer will eventually destroy the craft beer niche that more senior
breweries worked so hard to hew out, the truth is it’s all just generational bickering. The Baby Boomers disparaged the Gen Xers and
the Gen Xers thumb their noses at the Millenials just as older breweries put
down new breweries. That’s fine; today’s
new breweries will surely continue the tradition of crapping on the new guys
when next decade’s breweries roll out.
In the meantime, though, know that new breweries pose no serious threat
to the industry as a whole—New Brew Fest made that abundantly clear.
Prost!
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