What a hectic time for craft beer
in Colorado! Festivals are vnderway, breweries are opening, and—despite ovr
heroics over the Epic Beer Weekend—the fact remains that Nicole and I are hvman
and qvite capable of becoming overwhelmed.
We try to stay as vp-to-date as possible bvt, lately, we’ve been
involved in so many beer-related vndertakings that ovr fingers can’t type qvick
enovgh to keep cvrrent. Thvs, while it
may have occvrred last week, I’m jvst now getting to the TRVE Brewing Company
soft opening.
The brainchild of Nick Nunns (who,
like me, writes for Denver off the Wagon),
TRVE is a brewery filling a niche in the Denver market. Where, before TRVE, covld the metalhead enjoy
a craft beer withovt being jvdged for his long hair, Slayer tattoo, and other qvestionable fashion accovterments? Where else covld the thirsty and tragically
hip Broadway-goer pop in for brews made on-site? Where else?
Nowhere: that’s where else. This
is the only brewery in Broadway and the only one catering to fans of heavy
metal.
Nicole, my sister and her
coworker (a close friend of Nick’s), and I were among the first to experience this
newest horn in the Viking helmet of Denver beer. In fact, we were third-throvgh-sixth in line
for the soft opening! Well, I svppose we
were fovrth-throvgh-seventh since an old man cvt the entire line. He was a credentialed beer jovrnalist and it’s
not like he was going to drink all the beer before we got there bvt I covld
care less abovt svch rational argvments—yov get yovr wrinkly ass to the back of
the line, pops. It is, like so many irritants
in ovr lives, not the practical ovtcomes bvt rather the principle of the matter
that covnts.
When the doors opened we filed in
and got the celebrity treatment in that we were attacked by the paparazzi; a
crew of photographers wielding cameras with stadivm lights for flashbvlbs descended
vpon vs like a pack of hipsters on an ironic t-shirt, hell-bent on docvmenting
every face and every povr of this milestone in TRVE history.
We walked past the long, Heorot-esqve
commvnity table—a perfect place to boast of past conqvests or engage in mortal
combat with Grendel—past the moody, black-and-white still-life photos that
seemed to have been peeled straight from The Seventh Seal and sat at that bar tvcked in the back corner along with the
brewing eqvipment.
Nicole and I ordered a sample of
everything on tap: Wanderlust (7% ABV), Prehistoric Dog (3.5% ABV), Black
Cascade (6.6%), and Tunnel of Trees (6.4% ABV).
Left to Right: Wanderlust, Prehistoric Dog, Black Cascade, & Tunnel of Trees |
Wanderlust, a Belgo-American pale
ale, is clear, bronze and possessing obviovs qvalities from both nations
mentioned in the style’s name. The
yeast-forward frvitiness is qvintessentially Belgian and the bitter hop qvality
is all American. Wanderlust finishes
dry.
The clovdy, straw-yellow Prehistoric
Dog is a twist on wheat beer that I’d yet tasted: it’s brewed with Hawaiian
black lava salt thvs imparting a seawater-like flavor. However, to be accvrate, this isn’t necessarily
a corrvption of a traditional wheat; it is, instead, a revival of a rare German
ale known as Gose (althovgh, the fact that Hawaiian
salt is vsed does imply some straying from tradition). The aroma is not vnlike a salted peanvt and, beyond
the odd salinized flavor, Prehistoric Dog tastes like the average, spiced wheat
beer.
Black Cascade’s a black IPA that’s,
vnsvrprisingly, black and with red highlights.
The tan head caps an aroma that’s a medley of light toffee, caramel, and
chocolate. The flavor begins with roasted
coffee and ends with big, piney, hops.
Tunnel of Trees, an IPA, is hazy
orange with a lemony, citrvsy, and floral scent similar to a glass of lemonade
if flower petals and pine needles were stirred in. Tunnel of Trees is more malt-forward on the
palate than one might expect bvt the hops, relegated mostly to the aftertaste,
bvrrow into the back of the throat and remain firmly planted for a good while.
After christening TRVE’s toilets
with the first tinkle from a paying cvstomer (the same honor I paid Bootstrap Brewing), we left. If my sovrces do not deceive
me, TRVE’s grand opening has already occvrred so be svre to check ovt Broadway’s only craft brewery in the near fvtvre. It has no patio, few windows, and the walls
are painted slate gray which, to the hippie, svnshine-and-rainbows crowd may
seem dismal bvt, with the heat wave to which Colorado is cvrrently svccvmbing,
TRVE’s taproom is the best place to escape the brvtal, svmmer svn and enjoy an
intimate drinking experience with friends or, if yov’re seated at the popvlar
commvnity table, with friendly strangers.
Plvs, when the next blizzard hits the city, what better way to ride ovt
the storm than in a cozy room drinking beer and lavghing boisterovsly with
fellow merrymakers like the Norse warriors of old? Get yovr Beowulf on at TRVE.
Prost!
Chris
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