Epic vacations can be memorable, life-altering
experiences but quick, mini-vacations have merit, too. The mini-vacation is much less stressful,
easier on the wallet, and offers a glimpse into another world without having to
fully immersing oneself into said world—it’s the appetizer to the weeks-long
vacation’s main course. A taste. A morsel.
A dollop. It was just such a soupçon
Nicole and I experienced in Phoenix, Arizona between Christmas and New Year’s.
The impetus for our southwesterly, weekend excursion was
the wedding of Nicole’s friend, Zac. I
knew I wasn’t going to know anybody there, Nicole knew it, and, to entice my
introverted, stranger-averse self to the deserts of central Arizona, she hung
the carrot of local breweries in front of my face.
We visited a total of four breweries while in the
area (most were in Scottsdale); they were all quick visits and consisted of one
beer at each location. Is that enough to
obtain a full understanding, a full appreciation of the Phoenix beer scene? No, absolutely not. This was a mini-vacation and we were
snacking, not gorging.
First stop: Fate Brewing Company. “Hey, wait a minute,” Colorado beer geeks
might say to themselves, “isn’t Fate in Boulder?” Indeed, but, because the proprietors of both breweries kick ass and don’t get all pissy about trademarks (*cough* Sixpoint Brewery *cough* Strange Brewing in Massachusetts *cough* 7 Seas Brewing), they
both manage to eke out a business without besieging each other with lawyers; they’re
chill guys and they’re not looking to undercut anybody. Two breweries operating under the same name
might cause an iota of confusion and frustration but, in the end, tis better to
endure minor inconveniences than to burn bridges with fellow brewers.
Fate is nestled in a strip mall and, while the
exterior is wholly uninteresting, the taproom is quite quaint with glass
lighting fixtures, wooden accents, and a white-washed ceiling reminiscent of a
New England beach house. Their seven
barrel brewing system is on full display behind a large pane of glass. While there, I enjoyed their hoptacular
American Pale Ale and a pile of their scrumptious potato-slice nachos.
Next up: Papago Brewing Co.. Papago, like Fate, is huddled in a strip mall
setting. Unlike Fate, however, which is
in a fairly straightforward, normal-looking mall, Papago’s shopping center is
so gaudily southwestern it looks like Kokopelli’s timeshare: stucco walls, desert-worn
vigas, and a Mexican restaurant color scheme.
You have to blame the site developer for the flamboyancy, though; Papago
is just a tenant.
The interior of Papago is a mish-mash of styles. The rough-hewn beams and saloon-style chairs
are rustic and frontier, the tap handle decor and big screen TVs scream “sports
bar,” the massive bottle collection housed behind refrigerated glass doors
makes the place look like a liquor store, and the life-sized statue of a monk
greeting guests at the entrance imparts a decidedly Belgian air. I ordered Elsie’s Irish Coffee Milk Stout
which was just about the most decadent and delicious stout you can imagine; it
tastes like a cold cup of coffee with a healthy dose of Bailey’s Irish Cream
stirred in.
After Papago, we ducked into Four Peaks Brewing Company or, to be more accurate, we ducked into Four Peaks’ secondary
restaurant location which, to the best of my knowledge, does not have an
on-site brewing facility but does, of course, serve Four Peaks beer. Surprise!
It, too, is in a mall.
We asked about their seasonal offerings and were told
they had their flagship Kilt Lifter Scottish ale on cask and dry-hopped. A dry-hopped Scottish ale? Certainly, traditional ales of Caledonia
feature low-to-no hop flavor or aroma but, if you know me, you know I’m ardently
against strict adherence to beer traditions.
Traditions kill inspiration and prevent the adventurous brewer from
expanding his or her repertoire. Just
because something’s been done a certain way for centuries doesn’t mean it’s the
right way; it just means nobody’s had the guts to try anything different. Please, keep the old styles alive but never,
never let ancient ways restrict the progress of the American craft beer revolution. Anyway, this Scottish ale had a delightfully
lemony flavor that you’re definitely not going to find in other Scottish-style
beers.
We called it a night but, since the next day’s
wedding was set for late in the afternoon, we still had time the next morning
to squeeze in one more brewery: Sun Up Brewing Co. Sun Up was the only brewery we visited in
Phoenix-proper and the only brewery in a stand-alone building. It was also the most difficult to get to
because, just our luck, it’s situated on the Fiesta Bowl Parade route. With a little fancy maneuvering, we managed
to park in a nearby neighborhood and walk to Sun Up all the while taking in the
pageantry that marched past.
A few quick words on the parade: Arizona, like
Florida, has the reputation of being the place where old folks go to die. It’s basically a 113,990 square mile
retirement home. I can’t speak to the exactitude
of these assumptions but, when your capital city’s largest one-day spectator
event features both scantily-clad all-senior (that being senior citizens not seniors in high school or
college) cheerleading brigades and a convoy of past and present Miss Senior
beauty pageant winners, well, you’re not
doing much to change people’s minds.
Nicole did thoroughly enjoy the stampede of carts drawn by shaggy, miniature
horses, though.
Sun Up’s building—with corrugated tin roof and red
brick façade—looks like it might have once been an old prospector’s hut. It’s cozy and I don’t mean that as a
euphemism for “too small”—it’s really very comfortable and intimate. As the parade rolled past outside, I drank their
Trooper IPA on cask with Simcoe hops added.
That was the last brewery we visited on our short
jaunt to Arizona. The wedding was lovely
and the reception was raucous but the beer selection was limited to mostly-domestic
macrobeers. That’s the hardest part
about being a beer geek—realizing not everybody in the world has the same
affinity for beer as yourself. Most
people are able to have a fine time with nothing but Budweiser and Heineken and
not think twice about it. Not me. If it were my wedding, I’d consider it an utter failure if the guests didn’t
have a wide selection of craft beer from which to choose but, hey, that’s my priority for a good party because beer
is my passion. Not to say I didn’t have
fun, of course, but good times are made greater when American craft beer’s on
tap. Besides, the beer at the reception
helped get me my “Light Weight” badge on Untappd and put me a few steps closer
to the “All American” badge.
We can’t tell you much about the breweries of Phoenix
but we got a sampling of the Sonoran beer scene. Experts on Arizona beer we are not but, like
parched travelers on the lurching hump of a wandering camel, we espied an oasis
amongst the rocks and cactuses; an oasis that—unlike the usual, boring, springs
of water—flowed forth from the walls of taprooms. Good beer in Arizona is no mirage—dive right
in.
Prost!
Chris
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